When mixing plans accelerate cosmetic formulation: an example of an innovative bio-inspired emulsion

In a highly competitive and constantly evolving cosmetics market, consumer expectations have profoundly transformed formulation approaches. The current trend is towards more natural products and minimalist formulations, characterized by shorter ingredient lists. This evolution, however, is accompanied by high demands in terms of performance, stability, sensory appeal, and safety. For formulators, the challenge is therefore to design products that are natural, with a distinctive sensory signature upon application, stable, and safe, while limiting the number of ingredients and guaranteeing their efficacy. Faced with this increasing complexity, it is necessary to use structured, multi-scale scientific approaches that combine statistical methods for optimizing emulsion formulations, instrumental analyses for characterization, and sensory analyses to better understand consumer expectations. This design of experiments approach is emerging as a key lever for optimizing formulations and accelerating their development.

To meet this challenge, EBI mobilized its expertise within the framework of a final-year project (FYP) conducted by students supervised by professors, in collaboration with Mibelle Biochemistry. This project led to the development of a natural and refined emulsion incorporating calcium, designed to offer an optimal sensory experience. The formulation relies on the use of an innovative ingredient, EpiCalsome™, developed by Mibelle Biochemistry. Based on the encapsulation of calcium ions within a unique supramolecular phospholipid structure, this delivery system aims to facilitate the diffusion of calcium into the epidermis. Calcium is involved in key processes such as keratinocyte differentiation and the organization of the skin barrier. The emulsion developed by EBI using EpiCalsome™ incorporates natural ingredients and could support the physiological mechanisms of skin protection and renewal. Integrating this active ingredient into a natural and minimalist cosmetic formula thus presented a true formulation challenge.

To achieve the ideal balance between texture, stability, and comfort, the EBI team applied a rigorous methodology based on the Design of Experiments (DoE). This statistical tool allows for the rapid identification of factors influencing a formulation’s properties and the optimization of its composition while minimizing the number of trials. An initial screening phase identified the key ingredients and process parameters; this was followed by an optimization phase for the selected combinations.

Instrumental rheological and sensory analyses revealed a particularly effective synergy between three elements: xanthan gum, a blend of mild surfactants (glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, hydrogenated lecithin), and a duo of sensory agents (a plant-derived C15-19 alkane and coco-caprylate/caprate). During the process, the use of a radial flow turbine, ideal for emulsions, proved essential to obtaining the desired structure.

The resulting formulation is stable, creamy and white, non-greasy, non-whitening, with very rapid skin penetration, suitable for both face and body care, and suitable for both adults and children.

Thanks to the integration of the experimental plan, instrumental and sensory analyses, this work highlights the ability of students, tutored by Professors from EBI, to collaborate with industry and to enhance an innovative technology developed by Mibelle Biochemistry, combining scientific expertise, technological innovation and a deep understanding of consumer needs to develop high value-added products.

• Access the article: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41235541/
• Your contacts: Marc Lavarde, Marjorie Lassalle, Samar Issa